There’s no doubt that Milan has become the destination for designers with clout to show their exclusive and star-studded collections. As one of the foremost fashion capitals of the world, expectations are high for the household names that have come to dominate the Italian fashion scene. Here’s a rundown on the 4 most buzzed-about shows from MFW.
Boasting a truly iconic lineup of models including the indelible “anti-Supermodel” Shalom Harlow and aughts Versace megastars Natasha Poly and Mariacarla Boscono, Donatella and co. presented a mish-mash of prints that appeared less like a shocking cohesion of pattern and play, and more like the leftovers from Richard Quinn’s atelier.
Having impressed with a retrospective collection and a cheeky punk-inspired collection in recent years, this latest showing from Versace signals a brand focused on pop culture cash-ins more than design. But this representation holds nowhere near the gravity it would if the models were clad in the innovative designs the house became famous for. Still, Versace looks poised to continue its celebration of the idea of the Supermodel, even if the clothes themselves are lacking a Super sensibility.
Miuccia Prada’s showing for her titular brand revealed a honed-in version of her aesthetic, with neon and leather garments adapted to ‘60s silhouettes. Spider lashes, bleached brows, Rosemary’s Baby bangs, and knee-length skirts and dresses were accented by bold cutouts above and on the bustline. And as the show went on, the hems went up.
Prada’s penchant for near-gaudy embellishments occasionally brings to mind Jeremy Scott’s eponymous label, but the prints were fun, psychedelic, and never lacking in color and subtle kitsch. And with an eye for style like Miuccia, there’s no doubt that this eccentric collection has been carefully conceived by its master creator.
Jeremy Scott is a designer who gets a good idea and runs with it. Sometimes too far; but in his SS 2019 collection, the industry wild child took it just tacky enough with ‘80s-inspired silhouettes mixed with a “drawn on” crayon style print that eventually gave way to a sequence of designs clearly inspired by the very process of creating a garment itself.
Garments made to look like shears, thimbles, measuring tape, and lengths of raw fabric led up to Gigi Hadid in an ‘80s bubble wedding dress and veil assisted by puppeteers controlling the flight of whimsical butterfly mobiles.
Say what you want about Karl Lagerfeld (and many people HAVE expressed their opinions), but the creative director of Chanel and Fendi is at very least open to expanding his repertoire, with a cast list of models to suit. One thing was undeniable about this latest SS19 presentation (apart from the consistently exquisite tailoring); garments could easily be seen worn off the runway by the world’s most elite fashionistas.
Incessantly incorporating the classic Fendi logo (albeit in occasionally more subtle ways) Lagerfeld was smart to include streetwear elements like bicycle shorts among his long leather jackets and plissé skirts. Even more shrewd was his decision to put the shorts on ultra-marketable model Bella Hadid, whose photo will undoubtedly end up in more magazines than the opener and closer combined.
**Images courtesy of Vogue Runway